Nick Bayly escapes the dreary depths of an English winter to enjoy the highly rated golf courses, top-class tournament action, and five-star hospitality on offer in Dubai, where the sun always shines and you’re only a few minutes away from your next Michelin-stared meal
Dubai, the dazzling metropolis of the United Arab Emirates, is a world-class holiday destination that blends modern luxury with rich cultural heritage. Known for its record-breaking skyscrapers, extravagant shopping malls, and golden desert landscapes, Dubai offers an unparalleled travel experience for every kind of visitor.
Golf’s growth in Dubai over the last 30-odd years has mirrored that of the expat community, which currently represents around 88 per cent of the total population of nine million. Many of the UAE’s 22 golf clubs, 14 of which are in Dubai itself, survive for most of the year on a steady supply of expat golfers and corporate outings mixed in with a few local members, but they now enjoy a significant boost from travelling golfers, especially during Northern Europe’s winter months. Those coming from that part of the world can jump of a plane and be playing tour-standard golf under cloudless skies just seven or eight hours later, depending on the speed of the airport transfer.
Last year saw over 23 million tourists visit the city, which goes a long way to explaining why you need to book your tee times, hotel rooms and restaurants well in advance to avoid disappointment, especially from late November through to early March, when the temperature hovers around 25°c and is ideal for golf at any time of the day.
While Dubai is very popular with Tour pros due to its location at the point where east meets west, and its superb playing and practice facilities, there is no shortage of amateur golfers looking to sample the Dubai golfing experience for themselves.
And there is no shortage of places to do it, with the city limits offering more than dozen courses, including old favourites such as the Majlis course at Emirates Golf Club, to the stunning 18 holes on offer at Dubai Creek, and relative newer kids on the block such as the Montgomerie Course at Emirates Hills, The Els Club, and the two most recent openings, Trump International and Dubai Hills.
WATCHING THE STARS ON SHOW
My short trip to the city last November coincided with the staging of the DP World Tour Championship, the final event of the Europe’s top tier schedule. So, while Jumeriah Golf Estates’ two superb courses, Earth and Fire, were off-limits from a playing perspective that week, for our first day in the city we were treated to ringside seats in the DP World Tour’s hospitality suite alongside the 18th green from which we were able to watch the players in action during the third round.
With packed galleries – especially for those following eventual winner Rory McIlroy’s every move – there was a superb atmosphere, with fans lining every tee, fairway and green to catch a glimpse of their hero in action on the Earth Course, which is undoubtedly one of the most challenging layouts in Dubai.
The Earth provides a truly fitting canvas for the denouement to the European season, with the Greg Norman-designed layout featuring 102 bunkers, 20 lakes and treacherously sloped greens. The final four holes measure over a mile long, while the 651-yard 18th, whose fairway is split by a rock-lined stream, always provides a stunning climax to the tournament.
With the course having grown in nicely since its opening in 2009, and mature vegetation softening its visual appeal, the Earth course is impossible to fault in terms of its presentation and conditioning, although hole-for-hole it lacks a bit of the ‘wow’ factor of other courses in the city, with a succession of manicured tees, fairways and greens that are in danger of blending into each other after a while. That said, if you make a birdie at the last, all will be forgiven, and you’ll have stories of how you ‘conquered the earth’ to tell your friends for many years to come.
FOLLOWING IN FALDO’S FOOTSTEPS
The following day we were able to play golf, rather than watch it, and there are few more impressive clubs at which to do it in Dubai than the Emirates Golf Club, which is widely regarded as the ‘grandaddy’ of golf in this part of world, having been one of the first grass courses to open in the Middle East back in 1988.
Within just eight months of opening, the club’s Majlis Course had been chosen to host a glitzy new tournament, the Dubai Desert Classic, which has gone on to become a mainstay of the European circuit’s schedule over the last 35 years, with its traditional Arabic coffee pot being one of the most prized trophies in the schedule – along with a hefty first prize of $1.5m. This year’s renewal, which was held in mid-January, was won by Tyrrell Hatton, with the Englishman ruffling a few feathers following his move to LIV Golf shortly after taking part in this tournament last year.
While the Majlis was a green oasis in the desert back in 1988, the course is now surrounded by towering office blocks and luxury hotels, while single lane dirt tracks have been transformed into six-lane superhighways stifled by traffic. And where once golfers had to rely on the yardage book and a local caddy’s knowledge to give them an indication of where to hit the ball, they can now pick out the window of some luxury penthouse suite from which to take their lines into greens.
With tees from 7,300 yards to 6,300, it’s vital to play off handicap-appropriate tees if you’re not to get into cricket score territory here. In terms of holes to look out for, the three-hole run from the 7th is superb. Seven is a lovely par 3 over water before the famous drive on 8 which, even if you successfully navigate the desert, leaves to with a tough uphill shot to an undulating green. The 9th is a par 4 which plays tough even the best drive leaves a nerve-jangling approach over water. The back nine ramps up the challenge, and the last two holes are particularly notable – the almost reachable par-4 17th, and the par-4 18th, which, like the 9th, requires an approach over water – whether for your second or third.
The Emirates boasts not one, but two courses, with the Faldo Course – which first opened in 1996 as the Wadi course – having the distinction of being the only 18-hole course in the region to be fully floodlit, which makes for a fun game when the sun finally sets. Our round was played in the sunshine for the front nine and darkness for the back, providing a superb contrast. Redesigned in 2005 by six-time major winner Sir Nick Faldo, the par-72 layout combines a stunning visual design with the nuances and challenges of any championship course in just the right measure, providing visitors an exceptionally enjoyable golfing experience.
The second, and sadly, the final round of our trip, saw our group make the 30-mile journey along the coast to the JA Resort, where a 9-hole course provides a small part of this family-friendly resort, which boasts its own marina and two luxury hotels.
The course can be played as an 18-holer, as there are a variety of teeing options to provide different hole perspectives, but nine is perfectly adequate if you have other plans for the rest of the day. The course boasts a mixed bag of generous and some less generous fairways, some of which are tree-lined, while there is plenty of water to negotiate.
Opening and closing with challenging par fives, the risk-reward short par four 5th is widely regarded as the course’s signature hole here, though the tough, 431-yard par four that precedes it, with its narrow playing corridor leading past a saltwater lake to the green, is another title contender for best hole on the card.
Kept in decent nick and boasting a keenly priced green fee – by Dubai standards – JA is a fun course to play and its two luxury hotels make it an ideal holiday golf venue away from the hustle and bustle of the downtown area.
LUXURY LODGINGS
Dubai boasts a vast array of luxury accommodation options, including the iconic 7-star Burj Al Arab, and the wonder of the world that is Atlantis The Palm. Our trip included a four-night stay at 25hours One Central, a five-star, boutique-style hotel that prides itself on being slightly more bohemian than your traditional chain operation.
Located in Dubai’s business district, and directly opposite the eye-catching structure that is home to the Museum of the Future, 25hours is popular with hipsters and creative types. Its 434 rooms and suites offer a wide choice of different rooms styles and sizes, with themes including ‘Farmstay’ and ‘Artist Village’, and its quirky vibe certainly offers a refreshing alternative to the corporate blandness that can dominate many upmarket hotels.
With a choice of five excellent on-site restaurants, including the Indian-inspired Tandoor Tina, a state-of-the-art spa, a nightclub/bar and a rooftop swimming pool, 25hours proved the perfect place to relax between rounds of golf and sightseeing.
OFF-COURSE ATTRACTIONS
Away from those evergreen fairways, Dubai presents a heady mix of Middle Eastern and Western off-course attractions, from its glittering shopping malls packed with luxury brands, to ski slopes, to Legoland, IMG’s World of Adventures (the world’s largest indoor theme park), and the aforementioned Museum of the Future, which showcases technological development and innovation, especially in the fields of robotics and artificial intelligence.
Those with shopaholic tendencies can get their retail fix in the Dubai Mall, the world’s largest ‘shopping, entertainment and leisure’ destination. A temple to different ways of parting you from large amounts of cash, the mall boasts over 1,200 shops, including two department stores stocking all the latest luxury and fashion brands. There are also a wide range of leisure attractions for families, including a multi-screen cinema, an aquarium, an ice rink and a vast children’s play zone called KidZania.
Dubai’s Gold Souk is an altogether more glittering attraction that draws visitors from around the world. Located in the heart of Deira, this traditional marketplace is renowned for its extensive selection of gold, silver, and precious gemstones. With over 300 retailers, the souk offers everything from intricate necklaces to custom-made jewellery, catering to both serious buyers and casual tourists.
Thanks to Dubai’s tax-free status and strict government regulations ensuring authenticity, shoppers can find high-quality gold at lower prices than in many other countries. The market operates on a transparent pricing system, where gold prices are based on daily international rates, and bargaining is encouraged, making the shopping experience both exciting and rewarding. This was certainly the case for one member of our group who spent a tense hour negotiating in one shop over the price of an engagement ring and thanks to one our party being able to speak Arabic, came away with a good deal and hopeful a happy bride-to-be.
Beyond the shopping, the souk also offers a glimpse into Dubai’s rich cultural heritage, with its narrow alleys, traditional wooden archways, and the scent of exotic spices in the air creating an enchanting atmosphere. Of course, like any street market, there is some pressure selling, but a smile and a simple raising of the hand is usually enough to ward off unwanted attention from the smoothest of silver-tongued salesmen.
Competing for your visual attention, as well as your custom, is the 828-metre Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building, which dominates the city’s skyline and whose observation deck on the 148th floor – which is only two-thirds of the way up – is a must-visit to get an idea of the extent of Dubai’s development. It also features the world’s fastest lifts – elevators, if you prefer – although thankfully it’s not one of those scary external glass-floored ones.
Visitors looking to escape the bright lights of the city should take a trip on the creek in a traditional wooden Arab dhow or, as we did, hire a luxury private yacht that provided an extremely comfortable oceanside view of Dubai’s impressive skyline. Xclusive Yachts in the Marina has a huge selection of boats to choose from and can be hired out for short two-hour cruises and all-day excursions, with food and drink included.
Those seeking a little more adventure should head out to the desert, where a night or two spent camping under the stars in Bedouin tents, or a sunset safari in a 4×4, provides an opportunity to take in the majesty of the dunes as the sun dropped below the horizon. You should also not miss the chance to hop on a camel and enjoy a gentle, if somewhat ungainly, stroll across the sands.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Dubai’s food and restaurant scene is as diverse and luxurious as the city itself, offering a blend of global cuisines, high-end fine dining, and authentic street food experiences. Whether you’re looking for Michelin-starred restaurants, local Emirati flavors, or hidden gems, Dubai has something for every palate.
One of the defining characteristics of Dubai’s food culture is its international appeal. The city is home to top-tier chefs and world-renowned restaurant brands, including Nobu, Zuma, and Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen. Luxury dining spots often feature breathtaking views, such as Pierchic’s overwater setting or Atmosphere at the Burj Khalifa, the world’s highest restaurant.
For those seeking traditional Emirati cuisine, restaurants like Al Fanar and Arabian Tea House serve dishes such as machboos (spiced rice with meat) and luqaimat (sweet dumplings). The city’s vibrant souks and street food markets also offer shawarma, falafel, and Iranian kebabs, giving visitors a taste of Middle Eastern flavors.
Dubai’s multicultural population means you can find an array of culinary cultures, with Indian, Pakistani, Lebanese, Japanese, Korean and Italian eateries catering to different tastes and budgets. From high-end sushi bars to authentic South Asian spots, the variety is impressive.
Our group enjoyed a particularly enjoyable meal at the kitschly-named Hoe Lee Kow, a South Korean restaurant located next to the Dubai Hills Mall which specialises in serving modern twists on Korean classics. Many of the dishes – most of which are small plates – are brought out on charcoal grills, although you don’t have to cook the meat yourself as is the case at Korean BBQ joints. With friendly staff who are happy to talk you through the menu if you don’t know your bibimbap from your from your bulgogi, and very reasonably priced, HLK is well worth a visit if you’re in the neighbourhood.
As you’d expect, Dubai is never slow to embrace the latest global food trends, with the city seeing a rise in vegan, organic, and farm-to-table dining experiences, while extravagant bottomless brunches are still very much a thing here. Restaurants like Wild & The Moon and SEVA Table cater to health-conscious diners looking for plant-based options, while food trucks pop-up dining concepts and food markets, where you can sample food from a range of restaurants under the one roof, add a more casual touch to the food scene here.
PLAN YOUR DUBAI GOLF TRIP
For more information about planning a trip to Dubai, including things to do, places to visit, a diary of upcoming sporting and cultural events, and details of how to book a range of bucket-list experiences, check out www.visitdubai.com.
To find out green fee rates, book tee times, and discover the latest golf holiday packages to Dubai, visit www.dubaigolf.com or www.viyagolfholidays.com.
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