Matt Nicholson visits St Moritz, nestled in the stunning Swiss Alps, which is renowned for its world-class winter sports. However, as the snow melts and flowers bloom, the town transforms into a summer paradise, offering a something very different.
Originally a summer retreat for the British in the 1860s, St. Moritz has evolved into a premier destination for golfers, where you can tee off surrounded by Alpine peaks, enjoy exquisite cuisine, and experience five-star luxury at the iconic Kulm Hotel.
ARRIVAL AND A WARM WELCOME
After landing at Milan Malpensa Airport, the adventure begins with a scenic three-hour drive to St. Moritz. As you leave the bustling city behind, the landscape changes dramatically
as you pass through charming villages and picturesque vistas along Lake Como. The journey ascends into the Alps, with cascading waterfalls, dense forests, and striking mountain views that make the time fly by.
Upon arrival in St. Moritz, I checked-in at the iconic Kulm Hotel, an establishment with over 160 years of history. The hotel exudes a timeless elegance while offering all the modern luxuries one could expect from a five-star property.
Whether you’re relaxing in your room or taking in the breath-taking views of the Alps and Lake St. Moritz, the Kulm Hotel sets the tone for an indulgent stay.
After a leisurely afternoon exploring the hotel’s extensive spa facilities, I took a stroll through the charming town centre, then a tour of the hotel with Karolina Mazur, the Engadin Experience Curator.
This insider’s look into the hotel’s rich history and amenities gave me a true sense of the Kulm’s legacy and attention to detail.
The evening kicks off with a welcome dinner at the Pizzeria restaurant in the Kulm Hotel. Here, you’ll savour traditional Italian dishes crafted
with the finest local ingredients.
Think wood-fired pizzas, homemade pastas, and fresh salads, all served in a cosy yet sophisticated ambiance. It’s the perfect introduction to the culinary delights of St. Moritz. As throughout my stay at the hotel the staff are some of the best I’ve experienced.
A DAY OF GOLF AND ALPINE EXPLORATION
After a very comfortable night in my room I headed down to breakfast at the Grand Restaurant, where you can enjoy a leisurely start to the day surrounded by elegant interiors and panoramic views of the Alps.
The restaurant’s breakfast buffet offers a sumptuous selection of local cheeses, freshly baked pastries, seasonal fruits, and so much more.
Mid-morning, our group headed to the 125-year- old, Kulm Golf Club which is only a two minute walk from the hotel. After a coffee at the Club House, we followed with a warm-up session on the driving range before tackling The Kulm Golf Club.
Nestled within the Alpine landscape, it features a nine-hole course that offers a unique and challenging experience. The undulating greens and strategically placed hazards are set against a backdrop of awe-inspiring mountains, where holes are routed around the famous bobsleigh Cresta Run creating a serene yet exciting atmosphere for golfers.
It’s a true test of golf and pars aren’t easy to come by, despite the course measuring less than a 1000 yards in total.
After completing your round of golf, you must enjoy lunch on the terrace of the Chesa al Parc restaurant, located within the Club House.
The restaurant offers traditional Swiss cuisine, with highlights including Rösti (crispy potato cakes), fresh salads, and locally sourced meats. The terrace provides the perfect setting for soaking in the warm summer sunshine and admiring the surrounding views whilst checking your scorecard.
In the afternoon, I just had to explore the area further with one of the hotel’s electric bicycles. A scenic ride along the lake’s edge, passing through fragrant pine forests and lush meadows.
Make a stop at Lake da Staz, is a must a tranquil spot ideal for a relaxing drink as you take in the alpine serenity. Alpine life just hits a different spot.
After a day of physical activity, it was time to unwind with a much-needed sports massage at the hotel’s luxurious spa. Designed to relieve muscle tension and promote tissue repair, this treatment incorporates cupping and warm towels, leaving you feeling revitalized and ready for another day of adventure.
The evening brings a dining experience to remember in the hotel at Amaru, a restaurant helmed by Lima-born chef Claudia Canessa. The menu draws on traditional Peruvian street food, fused with modern culinary techniques and local seasonal ingredients.
With dishes like ceviche, anticuchos, and pisco-infused cocktails which were some of the best I’ve ever tasted, the meal is a sensory journey through flavours that perfectly complement the sophisticated, artfully designed interiors by British artist Luke Edward Hall..
A GOLF MARATHON AT ENGADIN GOLF CLUB
Thursday’s itinerary is a golfer’s dream, starting with once again a breakfast at the Grand Restaurant before a short 10 minute transfer to the Engadin Golf Club.. The club boasts two 18-hole courses, but today’s challenge is the Samedan Course, Switzerland’s oldest golf course and one
of its most prestigious.
Set within a valley at an altitude of 1,700 meters, the Samedan Course is a visually stunning layout that combines history, tradition, and challenging play. It’s called the Home of Swiss Golf for a reason.
Off the tee you are greeted with wide fairways, but water hazards, and well-placed bunkers, make approach play imperative while surrounded by the towering peaks of the Engadin Valley, gives you a sense of undulation despite being quite flat.
The crisp mountain air and panoramic scenery enhance the experience, making each hole a new adventure. I absolutely loved it.
After a full morning of play, we headed back to the Chesa al Parc restaurant for lunch.
For the afternoon, we couldn’t resist another visit to the Kulm Golf Club for a fun and relaxed round on the nine-hole course, with a twist – a two-club challenge. It was a light-hearted way to cap off a serious day of golf and allowed for some friendly banter among my fellow players.
Dinner that evening takes place at the Kulm Country Club, where I l enjoyed a special meal prepared by renowned chef Mauro Colagreco.
The highlight of the evening is not just the food but the surrounding Lord Norman Foster architecture. We then headed to the legendary Dracula Clubto watch a live performance by Dana Masters which was part of the St. Moritz Festival da Jazz which has been running every summer since 2005.
The festival runs for the most of July every year and The Dracula Club is the heart of the Festival. With just 150 seats it offers an ideal club atmosphere that provides an intimate and atmospheric venue, adding to the magic of the night. It’s a must visit whilst in St Moritz at that time of year.
FAREWELL TO ST MORITZ
The final morning in St. Moritz begins with another relaxing breakfast. As it’s the last day, there’s no better way to make the most of
it than by taking the electric bikes out for one more ride.
Explore new treks around the town centre, stopping along the way to enjoy the peaceful surroundings and the fresh mountain air.
It was then time for a farewell lunch on the Kulm Summer Terrace. The views over the lake and mountains create a fitting backdrop for your last meal in this beautiful alpine town, and the menu offers a range of local specialties, ensuring we left St. Moritz on a high note.
After lunch, it was time check out from the hotel and prepare for the scenic drive back to Milan Malpensa Airport, where the journey began. The return trip offers one more opportunity to soak in the mesmerising landscapes of the Swiss Alps, as you reflect on a truly unforgettable golf break.
ST. MORITZ AS THE ULTIMATE SUMMER GOLF DESTINATION
While St. Moritz may be best known for its winter sports, its summer allure is undeniable, especially for golf enthusiasts.
The Kulm Hotel offers an unparalleled luxury experience, blending world- class golf with exquisite dining, top-tier spa services, and the serene beauty of the Swiss Alps.
Whether you’re teeing off at the Kulm Golf Club or taking on the historic Engadin Golf Club, you’ll find that golf in St. Moritz is more than just a sport—it’s an experience.
For those looking to escape the heat and indulge in a summer getaway that combines adventure, relaxation, and luxury, St. Moritz and the Kulm Hotel should undoubtedly be on your bucket list.
For further details visit www.kulm.com
ST. MORITZ – A POTTED HISTORY
Until the mid-19th century, St Moritz was a quiet agricultural village with few hotels, known primarily for its mild summers. Travellers ventured to the mountains only during the warmer months, believing the winters to be too cold and treacherous. As a result, the local hotels would close from September until June.
However, everything changed in 1864 when Johannes Badrutt, the owner of the Kulm Hotel, made a pivotal bet with a group of English summer guests.
As autumn approached and his visitors were preparing to leave, Badrutt confidently told them that St Moritz’s winters were far more enjoyable than they could imagine – arguably even more pleasant than the foggy, damp winters of London. He invited them to stay for the entire winter, promising to cover their expenses and even pay their travel costs home if they didn’t agree.
Intrigued, four guests accepted the challenge and stayed the winter. To their surprise, they found themselves charmed by the sunny, crisp conditions and stunning snowy landscapes.
Their enthusiasm not only kept them returning winter after winter, but it also inspired others to visit. Thus, St. Moritz evolved into one of the world’s first premier winter resorts, a reputation that would only grow over time.
Long before St Moritz gained fame as a winter sports haven, it was revered as a vital health retreat. Archaeological evidence, now displayed at the local Engadine Museum, reveals that as far back as the Bronze Age – more than 3,000 years ago – people travelled to St Moritz to drink
from and bathe in its mineral-rich springs.
Located across the lake from the village, these springs are among Europe’s richest in carbonic acid. When absorbed through the skin during bathing, the carbonic acid stimulates circulation and revitalizes the body.
The appeal of these therapeutic waters led to a surge in visitors once the first guesthouse was built beside the spring in 1832. By 1859, St Moritz could accommodate 450 guests, solidifying its status as a prominent health destination.
Yet, following World War I, the town’s focus began to shift as skiing and other winter sports became the primary draw, relegating its health spas to a secondary role.
St Moritz’s fame as a winter sports destination was cemented when it hosted the Winter Olympics in 1928 and 1948, along with numerous world championships. Many iconic winter sports found their footing here, including the
legendary Cresta Run, the world’s first man-made sledding course, constructed in 1884. St. Moritz also became home to unique sporting events like skijoring, where horses pull skiers across snow, and the world’s first bob run on natural ice.
From a modest village to a world-renowned destination, St Moritz’s transformation owes much to its rich history, natural beauty, and, of course, one historic bet that changed everything.
